In order to expand my knowledge, I have been reading quite a number of past yield experiments that have been conducted at the various OSU extension offices locally (Madras and Powell Butte). It is very interesting to watch the yields increasing as the past researches brought in the latest varieties, fertilization techniques, and other factors that are involved in farming. One thing that is interesting to me, is how Alfalfa yields seemed to have been bucking the increasing yield trend, and have been holding steady, or even have dropped!
I recently found an old study done between 1970-1974 at the Redmond Extension location as well as Alfalfa, east of Bend about 10 miles. Now I am not 100% sure on this, but I am assuming that the Redmond location is what is referred to as the Powell Butte location now. I will call the extension office in the morning to confirm that. Here is a link to the article.
I found it very interesting that the yields easily hit 6.5 ton , and in other articles I have seen published from the same field site the researchers had hit averages closer to 7.5 ton/acre. The research site has been closed for a number of years, and I am curious to see where it was located because the alfalfa growers in Redmond I have talked to would be thrilled to average even 6.5 ton/yields. On a three cut system, to hit 2+ tons every cutting seems pretty good for the elevation.
The yields in Alfalfa seem to be more consistent with what we would expect today. 5.75 ton/acre would be a reasonable target on clean, well fertilized ground. I think these older yield studies highlight the importance of PH levels in our soils and how years of grass hay and the high N applications used on that grass can affect alfalfa and other crops and severely reduce yields. Some of my leased fields in Tumalo and Sisters that used to grow fine alfalfa back in the 70′s are now down below 5.5 in some cases. It is a a struggle to bring those ph levels back up as well as the overall soil health and I may not even have enough time to do it before the land just gets too expensive to farm! I talked to a grower in Alfalfa this fall about his yields this year. His fields average 5.5-6 tons/acre under pivot and with great care taken to maintain soil fertility and PH. This is at 3300′ elevation. His yields are on par to what the tests showed 40 years ago. Why haven’t his yields increased with the newer varieties and techniques he has implemented? I have been watching videos of the bounding increases in corn and soybean yields in the Mid-West and it encourages me to learn all I can so I too can keep increasing my yields.
The reason all this applies to me and to any other alfalfa farmer in Central Oregon is that there seems to be a wall that we need to push through with our yields. We need to keep learning and applying new tools to help increase the yield and quality of our products in order to stay profitable. What are the factors holding my crops back and how can I reduce or eliminate them next year? That is the question in my mind and maybe one day our yields will greatly surpass those old results.
It is now October 2nd, and it is time for another update on the Triticale/Oat experiment. If you have not read my previous posts about the 90 acres I am referring to, please read here. To summarize, I planted Fall triticale last October following seed peas, I cut it off in early July and by the 20th of July, had oats replanted. I applied 40 lbs of N and a little Phosphorous in early August. The field is located in Tumalo, OR at 3600′.
I just got done swathing the oats. They did pretty good considering how late they got planted. I intended to get them in the ground by around the 10th of July, but because of a rain system that moved in late June, I didn’t get the Triticale off fast enough. I chisel plowed the ground with two directions and then pulled a drill and tire roller on my planting pass. The chisel plowing saved me at least two days as it is very fast and I can keep my speed relatively good over the rocks. The seed germinated real well in the residue that remained after the chisel plow. Because of Nitrate concerns, I only applied 40 lbs of urea N, with a small amount of P. I spread a corner with 40 lbs of Ammonium Sulfate as an experiment, and it looks like the urea with the P did a much better job which surprised me. I guess the new urea treatments to reduce evaporation works well.
August was a warm month, as well as the two weeks of September, but by the 20th, we had a cold, wet snap hit that probably reduced my yield. The oats had 61 days in the ground, and was about 30% headed out at swathing. I will update this post with yield results but I predict it going between 2.25-2.75 ton/acre. If I was able to get it planted when I wanted to. I think I would have gained .5ton/acre.
I am going to repeat this crop rotation on 150 acres this year, we will see how it turns out. Here are a few keys I have learned.
- Get the fall triticale in before October 1st in order to get it irrigated and established before irrigation season shuts down. This would have bought me more time in June to get it cut and the oats planted in a timely manner.
- Apply 100lbs/acre of N for the triticale, and perhaps 50-60lbs of N on the oats depending on the planting date. If I can get the oats planted around the 5th of July, I will give it 60 lbs in order to press more yield out, and It should mature enough to avoid Nitrate problems.
- Harvest and replanting speed is key. Make sure you are able to get the Triticale crop off the field and the tillage tools back on as quick as possible.
- Irrigating the oats in July is somewhat difficult. Make sure to not get behind on your soil moisture.
Another option is to no-till the oats into the triticale stubble. I did this on 10 acres with a conventional drill and the oats sprouted good. I want to repeat a small acreage experiment on this in order to be convinced that a no-till drill isn’t needed. This wouldn’t be an issue if I owned a drill, but the custom rates to drill is cost prohibitive as I can work the ground for just a few $ more an acre.
Please email or comment your thoughts or questions!
Triticale Mid April
Triticale in Mid May
Headed out Triticale (June 12th)
Today my triticale is all headed out and in the flower stage. I planted it October 16-20th, and it didn’t sprout until we got some good rains the last week of October. I got 2 sets of water on it starting April 18th, and then shut off for a few days as it was still cool and the plants were still pretty small. We had a good heat wave in middle of May, and Boom, it took off. I could almost see it grow. In early May I had put down 70 units of N and 20 units of K, relying on residual N in the soil from the peas to add up to about 90 total units of available N to the plant. When the heat came, the fertilizer was watered in and ready for the plant. From mid May to June 12th, I got 3 more sets of water over the field with 9/64 nozzles on 12 hour sets. I stopped water June 12th, as my 5 foot wheel lines got stuck out in the field and wouldn’t roll any more without breaking pipes.
I am now waiting for this rain system to clear out to cut, I hope to start on the 20th, if all goes well it will be in the bale around the 28th and I will be disking the field as I clear bales off. I hope to start planting oats by the 3rd of July.
When growing grain crops such as oats, wheat, barley, or triticale for hay, one of the most important things that affect yield of the crop is proper irrigation. Proper irrigation can be the difference between a 3 ton/acre and a 5 ton/acre crop and doesn’t cost much more than a mismanaged irrigation system.
Irrigation timing is critical with grain hay crops. I have broken growing season down into 3 parts that require different Irrigation rates.
Part 1: New Seeding. This stage begins even before the crop is planted. Here is when the subsoil moisture can be best built up. This time is during the early spring and usually the winter snows have melted and moisture is deep, but if it is not, than this is the time to correct that. If you are dry 1 foot down or more, irrigate one pass before you plant to push that moisture down. April 15th is when most of the water gets delivered so make sure your system is ready to go so your planting doesn’t get delay too much. After you have irrigated, wait a few days to dry the top 2-3 inches enough to plant, then get that tractor rolling and get the seed down. Seed will not sprout without moisture, so if the top soil is too dry, a quick irrigation with sprout that seed. I like to get the seed sprouted before applying fertilizer so the N doesn’t leach down below the roots. After applying fertilizer, it is important to get it water down into the soil, but too much water and the N will be pushed below the roots and will be useless.
Part 2: Growing Season. After the fertilizer is spread and the plants are 6 inches or so tall, they have enough root system and use enough water to not worry so much about leeching your fertilizer. I run my sets for 12 hours every 5-6 days during this time period and only shut off if a rain of more than a half inch falls. Some people make the mistake of shutting off after a too light of rain and have a difficult time recovering. When the plants are growing and it is hot and sunny, a lot of water is being pulled out of the soil and it is important to keep the soil damp but not saturated. Grains don’t recover well from droughty conditions. Keep the water flowing and keep that moisture in the ground.
Part 3: Preharvest. The last set before turning the water off before harvest is the most crucial in getting top yield, especially with short wheels on wheel lines. At this time the crop is quite tall and sucking huge amounts of water from the soil. Also it is during the hottest part of the summer and evaporation rates are high. If you have short wheels, you must time your last pass to occur right before the wheels won’t turn in the crop any more. I like to switch my nozzles to a size higher than what I ran during the growing season and run 24 hour sets my last pass to push that water all the way down and saturate the soil. By this time the fertilizer has been absorbed into the plant and so leeching is not as big of a concern. If you have 5′ wheels, your crop has 2-3 weeks more growth after your lines cannot roll any more so getting the soil saturated will delay your harvest and boast your yields, it will also lower nitrate levels. If you have pivots, this is not a concern and you can freely irrigate until whatever harvest stage you are aiming for.
Hello readers, today I got some big news for the little town of Tumalo. I recieved a job offer from an chemical application company in Moses Lake Washington to run a spray rig and I decided to take it. This means that I will not be farming in Tumalo in 2013, and I am currently selling my equipment. I plan to sell all the tractors, combine, and tillage and hay equipment.
I made this difficult decision because I wanted to learn about the chemical side of farming and the business of application. I also wanted to be exposed to larger-scale farming in Central Washington where I will be working. This job also allows me to focus on my education as the job ends before school starts in September.
Selling my equipment and giving up my leased ground was a hard thing to do, as I have been working towards my goal of farming in Central Oregon for the past 4 years. However I think that I will learn so much more by working for a chemical company, and I will be exposed to so many more ideas and people while working this summer. I love Central Oregon, farming here has been an amazing learning experience the last four years, and I have loved most of it, (although sometimes the stress built a little to high for my liking).
I will continue this blog, however the content will switch more to my experiences in Washington and things that could be applied in Central Oregon. Also I am working on developing a college category which will be things I learned at school that I found to be expecially useful.
Thank you all for your support and comments!
P.S. If any of you know of people I should meet, or kids my age up in Moses Lake, please let me know as I only know four people up there right now, and three of them will be co-workers! Thanks
I have been made aware the last two years just how important education is in agriculture. I have been struggling with the choice of spending 4 years of my life and $30,000+ to study for a Bachelor’s degree in crop science. The reason why it has been a struggle for me is that I have not wanted to quit my farming operation and spend all my and time and financial resources to an abstract thing which is education.
I first thought about an ag degree when I was 17, in 2010. At that time I was finishing my computer science degree at the local community college and I was burned out from school. I loved every aspect of farming and I often skipped class to plow fields and irrigate because I valued my farming success over my education. At that time I had no clear direction of how I would succeed In agriculture, I just understood that it was the industry I wanted to be in.
I was taught to talk to people who knew more than I did if I had a big life decision to make. From the summer of 2010 to the end of 2011, I talked to as many successful farmers as I could, asking them what they would do if they were in my position. They all said to go to school, no matter the cost of time and money. I still was not convinced, as I knew I could not farm as well as move to another area to study, and I loved the farming I was doing. However, this last year I made a simple mistake with a crop that ended up costing me roughly $10,000 and many sleepless nights. I realized that one mistake could have been prevented simply by some simple agronomy knowledge that would be attained from school.
That $10,000 mistake would have paid for a year of tuition. After I understood that, I realized that I am too young to not get a formal education in agriculture. Why not invest the money I lost from my mistakes into an education? I hope to be in agriculture for many years, and if I can prevent even a fraction of mistakes with knowledge, a college education would pay huge dividends.
Perhaps you are in a similar place in life as I was. If you are considering school, I encourage you to think about just how short 4 years is in your life. It may seem overwhelming now, but I believe looking back, those 4′years of education and “broadening your horizons” would be well worth the cost.
We all have noticed hay prices climbing in the last few years. in 2007, hay was moving at around $150/ton, and consumers thought $180 was a steep price to pay for premium orchard grass. Now fast forward to the fall of 2012, anything remotely green is commanding over $200 a ton, and premium orchard or timothy prices are reaching $270 per ton or more in the barn!
With these hay prices climbing, one interesting thing I have noticed is that custom rates have not budged. The standard rate in Central Oregon has been roughly $80-$100/acre for the last 5 years, and it looks to stay steady for 2013. This phenomena was stated in an article I remember reading online last year. It was an article advocating large hay operations to consider hiring custom haying done versus tying up large amounts of capital in equipment. I can’t seem to find it now, but one of the points was that custom rates have been raising slower than the cost of fuel and equipment, making hiring a custom operator look more and more attractive. The way custom operators stay in business is by becoming more and more efficient.
For 2013, I plan to keep my standard rates for custom haying the same as 2012 at $80-$100/acre depending on the size of fields and smoothness. I have been eating the rising diesel costs, hedging myself as much as I can by getting it delivered on the price dips, I am waiting for the price to fall a bit and I will stock up so I have my fuel cost fixed. That is one cost I can control!
Alfalfa acreage has been declining in Central Oregon for a few years (this year it could turn around) which has tightened alfalfa stocks overall locally. Add strong prices for dairy hay packaged in 3×4 bales, and the result is a much lower local supply of small bale alfalfa. Besides Culver, Prineville and Madras, the only area with any sizable alfalfa fields left are located in Sisters. The community of Alfalfa located east of Bend has seen huge reduction of acreage. Many fields are dry now, and few fields remain. Take a drive out sometime and you can see firsthand the lack of alfalfa fields, some have been dried up, others are now replaced with orchard grass or pastures. Most of the remaining acreage is packaged in large bales to be trucked to dairies outside the area.
In Sisters, there are still some acreage left in alfalfa, and most of the crop is still sold locally, or at least packaged in small bales. I wish there was a source of data that tracks hay acreage accurately locally, I have scouted locally and seen firsthand the reduction of acreage, and talked to farmers about their clients, but data would be interesting to look at.
Alfalfa needs fairly neutral soil to yield well, and unfortunately adding lime into a fertility program adds substantial cost that is difficult to make up. Even with the added lime cost, it still is cheaper to fertilize than grass, but some fields are just too acidic to justify bringing to acceptable range for alfalfa.
With the reduction of alfalfa supplies, I have seen a shift of pricing. Traditionally, orchard grass with the additional nitrogen cost has commanded $20-$30/ton more than alfalfa, but in the last two years it’s flipped around. Keep in mind that the flipping of the prices has been mostly locally here, there are still cheaper alfalfa elsewhere but locally there has been a trend of increasing alfalfa prices higher than grass.
When purchasing hay, so many people forget that they are buying from farmers who happen to be human beings! recognizing this simple fact and understanding some details about growing hay can help you find (or negotiate) better deals on your hay.
The first and easiest way to get a deal on hay is to offer to pick it out of the field. It take a few more minutes, but usually you can negotiate as much as $20/ton off the price of hay simply because it removes the stacking labor and time for the farmer. Now for me, if I get a call for 1 ton and they offer to pick it out of the field, they better show up right on time or I am not going to risk rain or waiting a day to get the irrigation back on, so BE ON TIME!
Another great way to find bargains is to talk to the small field owners, (1o acres or less). Most of the time these growers have limited storage and try to sell it out of the field, so they usually are eager to move their hay and if you take a few ton, they will usually give you a discount.
Ask about last year’s hay. Buying hay from the year before is unpopular, but very little if any nutrient value is lost and if the farmer needs the room for the new crop, showing up with a trailer can get you a good deal on hay real fast. Tests have shown that the amount of nutrients lost by storage is minimal. See: http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G4575.
Use these tips to get a break on these high hay prices!
Central Oregon is blessed to have cool evenings and nights that produce prime baling weather. As the cool air settles down, condensation forms on the windows and help make a perfectly firm bale. However, it does take some planning ahead to have the moisture just right for the hay to not be too moist and cause mold problems in the stack.
I like to dry the hay out to 8% and then wait for the moisture to build to 11% or so before I start baling. This usually means I start baling at around 9 PM during first cutting and 7:30-8:00 during second cutting. If the hay is good and dry before the dew comes, the moisture is not in the stem and will dissipate through the bale and not cause any molding so the key is to get that windrow dry clear through before the dew hits. The dew helps the hay pack better and softens the hay to create more solid, heavier bales while lowering the dust contained in the bale.
I was baling alfalfa in Boardman, Or last year and we would start at 2 AM and barely got any dew because of the warm wind that constantly blows through the Columbia Basin. Tumalo, where I put up most of my hay, is at 3600 ft and we get lots of dew so we start earlier than most areas, the time that works best for you will be dependant on your location (in a valley, versus a hill), wind, and elevation.
If the hay is good and dry before the dew, I bale up to about 17% moisture before I quit for the night. I am pretty conservative, some guys go higher, but I don’t think its worth the mold potential. Once you can see moisture on your tires, start checking your meter frequently as the dew can set fast.